Monday, August 13, 2018

Review of the S-Model 1/72 scale M151A1/A2 MUTT

Review by Jorge Del Rio

I started playing Twilight 2000, while serving overseas with US Air Force, as a Security Forces member, and where I was stationed we used Jeeps in some of our patrols. When I started playing I collected some of the Miniatures that went with the game and added some Hotspur and MERC figures. When the game went dormant in my area I continued playing other games which used the miniatures. After finding out that this group existed I was able to put all the miniatures that I had collected and was using for another game to use, so I started looking for some other miniature and Models that I could use.

The M151A1
In my area we have a large group of reenactors that play out different battles from World War 2 and Vietnam, in which I have participated in. a couple of them have the Ford M151A1 and M151A2 MUTT jeeps, and quite frankly it is a great utility vehicle.

In my gaming, I pursued a location which could be built up into a safe haven for my players from which they could go out and conduct raids and search and destroy mission, and with the New America Cells cropping up everywhere it was perfect, what better place than Cedar Key, which is a small island chain that has its own Airport and port. With a large population of reenactors, I built a new location, and gave them the ultimate tool the M151A1 jeeps.

Image taken from S-Model Website

The Kit: 
The box contains 2 models which were able to be easily built with the weapons included in the  model kit. The kit has parts for an M2.50 Cal and a M60 LMG, I’m now searching to see if I can find a TOW armed version that I can add as a salvage unit. 

The model box contain 2 sprues, all the parts for a given vehicle are on one sprue.

The model is relatively easy to build, took me 15 minutes. 

The biggest issue with me is that it has photo etched parts (which I’m not a big fan of) and no replacement for the parts in plastic. 

The model is easy and pleasing to the eye. If you get it you will definitely enjoy it. I give it 4 out of 5 mushroom clouds, with the photo etched parts being the only real drawback.

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Slightly Larger Warriors of the Apocalypse - 28mm figures for Twilight: 2000

 I've been trying to outsource this article for some time because, to be honest, I really don't know the first thing about 28mm figures to save my life. I've never even owned any, so any mistakes are mine alone, and I am sticking to that story. In any event, this is a living page, and we'll add to it as I get more information!

 So with that said, let's see what there is in the 28mm for those that want to do Twilight: 2000 in that scale.

  Empress Miniatures:

Image of Chechen figures taken from Empress Miniatures Website



 The Empress Miniatures modern line is a mix of their own work, as well as the old Red Star line, and the sculpts are simply gorgeous. I have seen and played with some in the flesh at a friend's when we  did some Ambush Alley games based in Chechnya. I do think you get a lot for the money, and they proportions look good and are not exaggerated by any means, something I do find a bit often on a lot of 28s.  I would recommend the Chechen and Russian lines especially for Twilight: 2000, with the rest geared towards today's conflicts, but you could use them if you're doing Twilight: 2025?

 Prices are around $10.50 for a pack of 4, which can be a bit steep for those of us across the pond, but the quality is there, and the website looks like it would be an easy thing to order from.

 UPDATE: I have been advised by one of our readers that Empress has an American reseller, Age of Glory Miniatures. They are charging $12 for a pack of 4, but the shipping is a bit less for those of us across the pond, so it probably balances out. I also found out that Empress bought out Imprint Models and now has their own line of vehicles in 1/48th Scale (The range of technicals is especially useful).

Eureka Miniatures:

Image of MOPP suited Americans taken from Eureka Miniatures USA website.


Eureka has an extensive Moderns line, including a few figures that would be of use to Twilight: 2000 gamers, such as the MOPP suited Americans, and the NBC suited Russians. Sadly, you cannot get individual suited figures for the Americans, they come in a set of 12 for $26.40, but having seen them at a show, the sculpting is good for guys that could represent National Guard types or other 2nd line formations. The Soviets in Afghanistan also work well for a variety of uses. But, like Empress, most of the line is geared pretty much to contemporary conflicts, which would work well for Twilight: 2025. The Musorians might also work for poorly equipped Warsaw Pact troops.

Ordering is a snap, as I have ordered quite a bit of AB World War II 20mm from Eureka and the turn around time is very quick indeed.

The Assault Group:

Image of Royal Marine Command Pack taken from TAG website.
The Assault Group (TAG) is a long time manufacturer who's been churning out figures in it's Ultra Modern and Vietnam lines for a while now. While the dimensions are a bit..large, especially the weapons IMHO, the lines are extensive and you can probably find what you are looking for with little effort. The trouble is, like most 28mm Modern lines, they are geared towards Afghanistan/Iraq and not exactly suitable for Twilight: 2000. That said, I have known many folks who like the line and have bought them, so they do have a following.

Prices are $10.50 for 4 figures, just like Empress, and the website is easy to navigate, so, if you like the figures, give them a try, they do happen to have a lot of character.

Badger Games:

Image of Soviet figures taken from Badger Games website
Badger Games is the current manufacturer of the old Mongrel Miniatures line of figures that was nothing if not prolific for a while. They are the only folks I know who make 28mm East Germans! (other than Under Fire) Their quality, from what I have seen in photos is superb and proportions are dead on, in my opinion. While the Americans and British look a bit dated, they could be used for reservists, and well, by Twilight: 2000, who cares, right? Mixed equipment and gear is the order of the day! Just nothing too modern, and Mongrel certainly fits the bill.

Prices run about $2.50 a figure, with the above pictured pack being $15, so a bit pricier I suppose. Ordering looks pretty easy, and it's on this side of the Atlantic, so shipping should not be too expensive.

Britannia Miniatures

US Rangers taken from Britannia Website
The Britannia range, while small, is full of the usual character one finds in their 20mm. While their 20mm stuff tends to be a bit on the big side, the 28s look as if they would fit right in. The main issue is for Americans, all you get is stuff for Mogidishu in 1993. I suppose you could repaint it, but trying to do regulars with these packs is a bit tough. That said, they're pretty good looking from the pictures I have seen, as well as the times I have played with them.

UPDATE: It seems the 28mm Britannia suffers from the same issues their 20mm cousins suffer from, as they are a bit larger compared to other 28mm stuff, they might fit in with TAG IMHO?

Prices run about $2.62 a figure, and the ordering system looks pretty simple (most of my Britannia I got second hand over the years), but they would make a nice SF unit for Twilight: 2000. 


Mike Bravo Miniatures:

British Infantry taken from Mike Bravo Miniatures website

Ok, if I played 28s, these would be where I would personally start. They're working on Americans with Fritz helmets for the 1980s, their Soviets look quite nice (and would probably fit in with Mongrel) and their Winter of '79 range would be perfect for games set in the UK as things are falling apart! In short, these are some good looking figures. They even have a news crew, cops and paramilitaries. In short, everything you need.

Prices are comparable to Empress and I think between those three manufacturers, you can put together some really nice armies for Twilight: 2000. His website is also full of helpful hints on where to find other 28mm resources such as vehicles and terrain.

Mo-Fo Miniatures:

British with SLRs taken from MoFo/Gripping Beast website

Mo-Fo, like Mongrel and Mike Bravo, are perfect for the kind of figures you'll need for Twilight: 2000. While they're structured for the Falklands, you can use them as reservists, and the Argentinians have a ton of uses (painted right, they could fill in for more than a few NATO armies) and the Mercenaries would make fine Marauders/Spetsnaz. Proportions look great and they do paint up well from the looks of the figures.

As for prices, they are $7ish for 4, which is not bad considering the prices of most 28mm lines. Shipping to this side of the Atlantic might be a bit of a killer, so it all evens out. The website looks easy to order from and I think Mongrel, Mike Bravo and these figures would mix very well.


BMP-2 taken from Sloppy Jalopy website

Sloppy Jalopy has a good reputation for quality in 28mm circles, and I have played with some of their Israeli line, and was impressed with the quality for myself. While the range is small in what it covers thus far, it fits in well with Mongrel, MBM, and Mo-Fo, and you should have no trouble using any of the three with their Cold War line.

Prices run about $19-$28 a vehicle, depending on the vehicle, but consider there's a lot of metal and resin that goes into one of these. And to be honest, if you're doing 28mm, you're probably doing a very infantry-heavy game.

The website could be easier to navigate, as it took me a bit of time to find the actual catalog, but the vehicles do look nice and as I said, would fit well with the above mentioned lines. Sadly as of right now, they are the only modern vehicle manufacturer in town, and they are scaled 1/56, so if you want to find stuff they don't make, model kits might be the only game in town, but you may have to settle for 1/48th scale kits, and they are not cheap either these days.

Under Fire Miniatures:

The new 28mm 1980s US Infantry, image taken from the Under Fire Website

 I do have some experience with the Under Fire line, at least their 20mm stuff, of which I commissioned some of their Russians, and I found the sculpting standards to be top notch and while I have not painted them yet, I suspect they will be a pleasure to paint. The figures themselves look as if they would be in scale with Mike Bravo, Empress, Eureka, Mo-Fo, and Mongrel. I think these figures would compliment Mongrel VERY WELL indeed.

The website from previous experience, was a pleasure to navigate and order from, and the figures are priced at around $11 for a pack of four, but again, the quality is quite high. While the gear might be a bit dated (M16A1s and M1 steel pot helmets), you could very well use them for Twilight: 2000. The other figures in the line are awesome, to say the least, and they're the only ones to make West German Cops!

Lead Adventure Miniatures:

Image taken from TGN website

While the Lead Adventure line is more "Mad Max/Gaslands" than Twilight: 2000, some work with greenstuff and a brush could make these guys look great for your tabletop. There are a lot more of these "character pack" that could fill out an army. This pack alone screams "Marauders". While Lead Adventure's own site is down, they sell through Magister Millitum, and this pack is selling for about $15, not of course, including shipping. The Magister website is easy to use, while shipping for us in the States would be expensive, a few packs of these to fill out an army would not be ruinous.

HLBPS:

Boy, this vehicle looks very familiar? Image is taken from the HLBPS website

HLBPS has a smallish but very niche collection of 1/48th scale vehicles, including some I haven't seen in any scale other than 6mm (such as the CG Stingray painted up to match a certain color plate we all know and love). While prices run about the usual ($30-40 a vehicle, not to mention shipping), it is again, expected you aren't going to buy hordes of vehicles.

Not to mention, they have a 28mm tugboat that could be...useful...

I don't know the quality of the vehicles, but the website appears easy to order from and while shipping might be an issue, I would give these a look to fill out specific needs. 

Monday, July 16, 2018

Ironclad Miniatures - a review

I know I have been doing a lot of reviews lately, but hey, it's what I have time for what with 20mm WWII dominating my time lately. I am not a prolific painter by any stretch, in fact, the prep for this game was something of me on a mission, so I will be slowing down to something of a more sedate level in the future.

Now that said, I did paint up something of interest to Twilight: 2000 miniatures gamers, and that is some items from Ironclad Miniatures. Specifically, I painted up FP-1a, Hasty Trench Position, and FP - 5, their Prepared Trench. Both come in a hard resin, grey in color, and are lightweight and durable from first blush.

I was really happy with the ease of painting them, after an undercoat of black gesso which held really well, I painted them a shade of BF Woodland Brown overall, and then scattered some Citadel Scorched Grass flock. I then added random tufts from the Army Painter line, as well as some school project rocks that I then painted grey, and drybrushed a lighter grey. the branches were painted a VMC Flat Earth, and the sandbags VMC Middlestone. The wood slats in the trench I hit with a bit of VMC Flat Earth as well, and drybrushed AK New Wood over it. I then hit the item with pin washes of Magik Mudd Wash (sadly no longer available).

All in all, I was pleased with the product, and highly encourage it. They make an entire Vietnam Firebase line of products that would do very well for cantonments, and I am going to say this much, if they paint up as well as these small pieces did, then I am encouraged. They also have some ruins that I got as well (all of the Ironclad Miniatures products were purchased by my wife as a nice Xmas surprise last Christmas!) and some Hedgerows for Normandy. I am especially looking forward to those, as they look to be as easy as chips to assemble and paint up.

Anyhow, here's some pics of the painted products...ready to play:




In short, I give them 5 out of 5 mushroom clouds and will tell you that they are an excellent product, and one you should give a try for any 20th century gaming! 

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Book Reviews: Painting Wargaming Figures and The Wargaming Compendium

Hi all,
 Not much on the modelling and painting front. RL has been busy and I have been doing a lot more writing of late, not to mention, the motivation to pick up the brush hasn't bit me like is usually does this time every year. I am sure it's a temporary thing and I will pick it back up soon.

  But, I wanted to do a book review or two, and these books are ones I've wanted to do for some time. 

Painting Wargaming Figures
Author: Javier Gomez
Publisher: Pen and Sword Military, 2015
Dimensions: 6 x 9"
Cover: Soft Cover and Kindle

Pages: 192pp

Taken from Amazon.com
 To me, this is an essential book for any serious painter. The techniques that he lists here have certainly upped my game as a painter (and I am not good enough to think my game does not need improvement by a long shot). What I like most about this book is the very clear layouts, how each color is given a chapter's worth of attention, including that pernicious of all colors to paint with, white. And yet, he does so with a bit of dry humor, and simplifies what seems to be at first glance, a complex method only known to a true artist. But the secret is, it's not hard at all.
 
 Everything about this book is well laid out, the techniques are solid (I have used them often) and work with any paints by any manufacturer (even if he uses Vallejo paints exclusively throughout the book, one can easily work out the conversions between brands), I also like how he discusses each technique and the other tools of the painter's toolbox. He teaches priming, drybrushing, ink-washing, it's all there and laid out in a clear, easy to follow format not limited to a single manufacturer.

 What I like most of all, is that he then discusses other scales. Just because he uses 28mm in most of the examples of the book, he also discusses 20mm, 15mm, and 6mm to name a few scales and how you can simplify his techniques to work with smaller scales.

 This truly is a must get desk reference for any wargamer, if not handy at the paint table itself. We can all learn something from this book. 5 out of 5 mushroom clouds. 

The Wargaming Compendium
Author: Henry Hyde
Publisher: Pen and Sword Military, 2013
Dimensions: 6 x 9"
Cover: Hard Cover, Soft Cover, and Kindle
Pages: 520pp
Taken from Amazon.com
This is simply another must have book for any miniature wargamer. In this book you get a history of the hobby, capsule histories of every book that has ever discussed miniature wargaming as a subject, two sets of wargaming rules (neither a rules set suitable for Twilight: 2000, sadly...), a wonderful writeup on how to paint soft plastic figures in a way that the paint ACTUALLY sticks. (Yes, this is a big deal in and of itself, discussions on just about every period in wargaming, and much, much more.

While the size may be a bit daunting, it's actually a very quick read, and it is very beginner friendly with lavish use of charts, infographs, and color photos that have very nicely painted figures throughout. It's certainly influenced my own efforts both on this blog, and elsewhere, and Henry hasn't rested on his laurels, as now he's running a Paetron supported blog of his own, with something of a podcast associated with it as well. If you like the book, I more than encourage supporting his efforts through Paetron.

The book certainly merits the score of 5 out of 5 mushroom clouds I am giving it, and I would run, not walk to get your copy if you do not have it already. 
  

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

A Rundown of Aftermarket Vehicle Improvements for 20mm Vehicles

Hi all,
 I know it's been a while since you heard from me, but I was busy with some other writing projects I was working on. Needless to say, those are being put to bed, after a fashion and I wanted to add another post to "500 Miles.." before May ended as I will be AFK for a good chunk of June.

 So what are aftermarket vehicle improvements? These are items that are sold separately and are often used to replace kit parts, or improve the look of said kit. These items include stowage, replacement barrels for main guns, and/or even major parts. A lot of these parts can be very, very useful for the "gypsy caravan" look of Twilight: 2000.

So, without further ado, let's get into it.

Black Dog Models

One of the many Black Dog offerings in 1/72, this set is for the Trumpeter LAV-25 kit
(Taken from the Black Dog website)

Black Dog is nothing but prolific, and of very high quality. I have personally only ever worked with their M1A1 Iraq War accessories set, but the overall quality is such that I was impressed, parts fit without much work, and the resin is odor free and of high quality. I had personally no issue with the items I have worked with, and recommend them highly to anyone and everyone working on a modern or WWII kit.

Among the more useful items one finds in the 1/72 range are: The M48 Vietnam set, the LAV-25 set, the AAVP1 sets, the M2 Bradley set, the US Modern Equipment sets, the M113 sets, (including the IDF sets (but be careful not to overuse it, some of the equipment is uniquely Israeli), the M60A1 set, the Food Supplies, Barrels, Ammo Boxes, Tentage and Bedrolls, T-54A Conversion Set, Warrior Accessories, and the M35 Gun Truck conversion set.

Keep in mind, many of these are made for specific kits, so be aware of what those kit(s) are before you purchase one of Black Dog's sets, but once you do, you'll find in my humble opinion, some of the best resin aftermarket stuff on the market.

Legend Productions

The Striker Accessories Set (taken from the Legend Productions website)
Legend is neither as prolific, nor as extensive a product line as Black Dog, but it does make some nice stuff. I have made their kits go together with a variety of vehicles I happen to have in my collection and it's stuff is often made in single pieces, which means an accessory set can often go for two or three vehicles, instead of just one. The only issue with Legend is that it does have a bit of a strong smell when you first unwrap it from the box, so it might be a good idea to let it cure for a bit on a handy surface before you put it to use.

That said, it's a line with good detail, solid items, and plenty of pieces of which to fire your imagination, the cooler I painted up as "For Beer" on one of my M1s was a Legend piece, and it took a so-so kit, and really made it pop.

RB Models



125mm L/48 D-81K barrel (taken from RB Models site)

RB Models is an outfit in Poland that makes rolled aluminum and brass barrels as replacement items for model kits. Most of what they make is for WWII in 20mm, but they also make a few modern items, such as the D-10T for the T-55, the M242 Bushmaster for the Bradley (these barrels are small, so adroit handling is a must) and the D-30 barrel for the 122mm D-30 Howitzer. It's not a large line, but it's a well made line. All of the barrels come packed in a plastic baggie and they are bit longer than they need to be, so you can drill out the gun mantlet, and properly place the barrel into the turret. I've used the barrels on a Bradley of mine, as well as several WWII vehicles, including a Panther and I recommend them without reservation.

S & S Models
One of the General Stowage packs available from S & S (taken from the S & S models site)
S & S Models has been reviewed for their vehicles before and as I said, they have some stuff that very few manufacturers in 20mm even make. Such is also the case with their stowage, as they make some very useful items, such as the unique stowage bins for Bundeswehr M113s and stowage boxes for Chieftains. The general items look as if you could get a lot out of them too, with enough for two or three vehicles per pack. Knowing what I know of S & Ss quality, I also recommend them without question, and though postage can take a bite, it's worth it for what you get.

I will do a companion article for 15mm as well as a separate article on decals soon, and I have an idea for this to be a "living post" that will be updated as new product lines and items come to my attention.

TTFN! 

Monday, May 7, 2018

Trumpeter 1/72 scale LAV-25

Welcome to another "Its 500 Miles to the German Border" article. Today we will cover my assembly and painting of the Trumpeter 1/72 scale LAV-25.

From those who know the Twilight 2000 game the LAV-25 is almost iconic, some would say necessary vehicle to have in ones collection. Took me awhile to find this one for a decent price and not something extortionist online (I paid $28 CDN all in)., I'm still on a beer can budget after all.

Trumpeter models from what Ive seen are pretty much China's answer to Revell, and comes pretty close quality and ease of build wise. In future I will be more diligent to take step by step photos but here we go:

Opening up the box the sprue was laid out nicely and part were well labelled for the instructions given. Really easy to follow.

The parts fit really well together and there wasn't any issues with flashing (those pesky "mold lines" and other bumps etc) that effect many models.

Now before anyone starts getting out the glue and slapping parts together (if your experienced than you can ignore the next bit and make your own mistakes) I really, really, recommend fitting your parts together before you glue. This way you can see how they fit and narrow down any potential problems latter on. On this model the tread pattern on the tires IS directional. Make sure you lay out the tires and rims ahead of time and plan out the placement. BONUS on this model is the tires are rubber which I thought was a nice touch.

 I like to use side cutters for taking off parts, some like using a hobby knife/exacto etc. The side cutters have more control and are easier but whatever floats your boat or amphibious fighting vehicle.

The hull fit well and so did the back hatch. Again cant emphasize enough about doing a "dry fit " first and then jumping in with the glue once your happy with how everything lines up.

 Now the turret. I added some extra armour (not included in the kit) by using polystyrene sheet (.040 mm) and cut into squarish shapes to represent some extra armour platting the crew in Twilight 2000 could have scavenged and welded onto the turret to protect the crew.

The antennae I used garden wire put through the top of the turret before I glued the top and bottom half the turret together. I used loctite to keep the antennae in place instead of the usual "thin glue" used for putting the model together.




Here we have the base model pretty much together minus the wheels seeing how it all looks.

At this point one should think about any kind of accessories ( handmade tarps, parts, weapons, chains, ropes, parts from other kits) that you'll want to put onto it.





This kit didn't include a spare tire (no idea why) so I had to make one.

Using and old truck kit tire (was same size) I scraped out the wheel hub and placed an extra hub from the model kit inside it.

You'll also see in the picture some boxes and a barrel I had from other kits that I would add to the model.




Now this is a bad example of not following my advice. These extra parts should have been glued on PRIOR to doing the base coat! So it was loctite to the rescue yet again. The regular glue may or may not have worked after the base coat was on. For base coat I almost always use Citadel Chaos Black (in a spray can) but really and matte base coat should do. The reason for this is twofold (again sorry advanced practitioners). 1/ the rest of your paint needs something to stick to. 2/ it helps give those recesses (grooves, shadowed areas) shade etc. You could base coat in white if you wanted to make your model brighter, but this is for TWILIGHT 2000 not the show room.

 OK so taking a huge leap forward these pics are the pretty much done pics. My apologies to the class. In future there will be a more step by step process with pictures.

I did a few coats of NATO green (TAMIYA) on most of the vehicle leaving out the wheels and the muffler (aka exhaust) as seen on the right side. The muffler I started with a burnt umber, then brass followed by some orange (go dark) applied with a sponge. This makes it look good n rusty.
The rest was painted in the NATO standard cam pattern of brown/black/green.

The wheels at this point get painted with a flat black the hubs were painted using the same rust technique as the exhaust system. Also same technique on the air intake grill, and cargo bins.

I also added a home made cam net (made by using arm sling bandage dyed green and dried out). The cam net was then wetted down, rinsed out so just damp then rolled into shape and placed on model. Glued into place using loctite. Let cam net dry (mostly) then paint using inks to emphasize the shadows, and dab on some other camo colours.


 Once everything is in place and your happy with the base colours. Get a pencil and scratch lightly parts that stick out. Try out a bit at first don't overdo it. Parts where paint would chip from use like door hinges, edges of the body, anywhere the crew would step on a regular basis, tops of fuel cans etc.

Going back to inks, highlight around objects like panels or recesses to make features stick out or "pop". Think of it like doing an outline on a picture you coloured. You can also try very fine tip markers instead. I've used both myself with varying results.

Now for the "weathering" technique. This just helps make the model look like its actually been used and abused like in real life.

I also added the red diamond denoting the 5th Infantry Division from the Twilight 2000 story line ("Escape from Kalisz") and put Monk's name by the drivers hatch as a nod to one of the narrators stories through the core rules set.
Back to weathering: this really is just dulling down the colours so the vehicles don't look they just rolled out from the factory.

Myself I use a paint called Mushroom made Folk Art. But anyone could use a dirty grey or dull brown. Dry-brush whatever colour over the whole model to dull down anything that seems to bright. The idea being to dull the colours down not paint over top of them. The mud effect was the first time I tried a Citadel "texture" paint called "Agrellan Badlands". Its an odd paint (from what Im used to) in that its not runny but actually pretty thick and it has bits of grit in it. The same technique for you DIY's out there could probably be achieved by letting a beige/brown/leathery colour start to dry out on your pallet, add some fine sand, stir then dry brush on. The idea with the mud is to make it look like it was the wheels in motion that splattered it about.
The undercarriage was done using the Tamiya NATO green followed up with doing the rust effect technique followed up by generous amounts of weathering then mud effect.

Thanks again for tuning into "It's 500 Miles to the German border". Feel free to comment or ask questions and Jason or myself will do our best to answer or get back to you.


Wednesday, April 25, 2018

New Team Member, upcoming reviews

Thank you gentle reader for tuning in for another post of "It's 500 Miles to the German Border".

Jason has asked that I join the team to present some articles/reviews on modelling and I look forward to the challenge and hope to share my insights, techniques, whats worked and what hasn't with various 1/72 scale models (20mm).

Fortunately I was in between jobs and housing at the time so it worked out. (At left the EvS workshop/mobile home)

The models I make are for my own Twilight 2000 group of family and friends and started out innocently enough now its become a festering disease of combing through bargain bins looking at other die-cast models that are close to same scale and hitting pretty well every hobby store within 100km (60 miles), not to mention recruiting others to do my evil bidding and having minions combing through garage sales looking for models, parts or anything that might "mad max" up models and die casts. Countless hours searching for deals , begging on the street corner for sprue...... well enough about that.

Nobody starts off awesome in doing models but anyone can get good enough in quick order. Ill even show a few of the ugly models with the good ones. I don't use airbrushes or use anything super expensive, trying to keep it "beer can budget". Having said that I do sometimes buy a fancy paint but nothing outside of the budget or reality for the majority of gamers out there.

Some example model builds/mods I will be covering are all for the purpose of using in  our Twilight 2000 game sessions.

1/72 scale LAV-25 (Trumpeter)

Variety of AFV's , including APCS,  IFVs, Tanks, etc.

Also covered will be models from Revell, ICM, ACE (the bane of my existence but willing to give another shot), Academy, ERTL, ESCI, etc





1/72 scale 2.5 "Deuce" Truck (Academy)
Lots of other cargo vehicles, jeeps, etc











Modified Die Cast Cars

 Matchbox, Hotwheels, Corgy or whatever I cant get my hands on.






Making Cam nets and other scratch build items
Its time to dust off those "arts and crafts" skills, using whatever the hell we can find in the junk drawer, the neighbors junk drawer (you just have to move quicker than them and their dogs!) or wherever you can find "odds and sods".


Thanks again for tuning in and I thank Jason for bringing me to his team. 

Sincerely, EvS! 

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Twilight 2000, The Look on the Tabletop, Part 1, Vehicles

Twilight: 2000 is in some ways, a unique post-apocalyptic experience, it isn't quite Mad Max, it isn't quite Gamma World, or for tha...